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Ed
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2000-09-25          20067

Ok, cub cadet experts - you know who you are - I have seen your posts :-) I have a 98 7275. Do you know of a baldwin crossover number for the filters? I do not like paying the cub dealer $10 for an oil filter and $25 for the hyd filter by the seat - and what is the OTHER longer filter under the left side (as sitting on it) rear fender??????if I change the fluid - the 2 drains are on both sides of the axle housing right? and the only fill is on the 'hump' under hte seat by the dipstick? I did not get a manual with mine - and caught the dealer in a lie when they said they sent it to me, as a result, we dont speak much. I have changed the oil in the motor - Im mech inclinded and not afraid to get dirty, and want to do the xmission. I have 253 hrs total on it. (I put on 100 since I got it)Otherwise - aint this a great board? been backhoeing, grading, mowin etc with it - boy you learn a lot when you do it commercially.Im turning a 5ft bushhog SQ60R4 btw - I know of people who turn them with 19PTO hp 8Ns so my 21PTO hp should be enuf (tractortips.com says I have 27engine net hp, 21 pto - does this sound right?) but when I mow, I have taken down stuff up to 2" thick - makes a hell of a noise but the hog does it....any extra maint I should be doing? most of my mows are tall thick weeded neglected fields - I already know to clean the screens a lot...BTW - I added 4 lights to the top of the ROPS, fed off a direct line from the battery to a 15amp breaker and thru a relay activated by the tractor parking lights (so you cannot leave them on) and switchable forward or rear - anyone interested in pictures or the wiring diagram?In the meantime - please help me out with filter crossovers.....central tractor sells filters from baldwin for 1/3 what the dealer does.Lastly - anyone ever add a larger fluid cooler? And the dealer gave me a 5 gallon bucket of 'hydraulic tractor transmission oil' from lubriguard or something - this is correct stuff to use right?thanks guys

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charlie
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2000-09-25          20068

go to baldwinfilters.com and use there on-line catalog.good luck ....

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Ted Kennedy
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2000-09-26          20090

Hi Ed, About the filters for your 7275, you are correct in that they are expensive and cross referencing to a domestic brand isn't easy. Maybe Baldwin is a good bet. I have some information that you can use regarding your machine, and I never am quite sure if it will be taken in the spirit in which it was given (I only want to help): Don't Mess With Success. The dealer filters from Mitsubishi do the job very well and judging from the amount of time that can go between changes, you don't gain anything from taking a chance on another brand. Your machine wasn't cheap, don't risk damaging it. The long filter under the operator's platform is the hydraulic filter, the plugs you mentioned are total system drains, the long filter coming through the right side is the hydrostatic drive filter. Virtually the entire center and rear assemblies of the tractor serve as reservoirs. DON'T DRAIN YOUR FLUID UNLESS YOU HAVE EVIDENCE THAT IT IS CONTAMINATED BEFORE 200 HOURS! Both filters need to be changed at 50 hours to start, then, after two hundred hours change both filters, drain it all out, and replace it fresh. You don't need to be hassled with 23.2 quarts of fluid to dispose of before 200 hours especially when it is still perfectly good. Don't use any other fluid with the Cub Cadet fluid, not even to top off, or you may have contamination problems from dissimilar chemicals. You won't gain a thing by looking for a bigger cooler, the one that came with the machine should be good in full throttle operation even in the hottest weather, under heavy loads. If you add attachments that use hydraulic fluid from the open center, remember to top off. Cub dealers say it is OK to add up to one extra gallon when both the loader and backhoe are mounted. Of special concern on the small Mitsubishi diesels is the cooling system. Believe me, you better change your antifreeze every year with a non-alcohol base, ethylene glycol product, and add no rust inhibitors. The system takes 6.3 quarts, mixed for your zone temp with demineralized water. You need at least a 50% mix to ensure proper heat transfer. Don't change the coolant and you can kiss your engine goodbye from cylinder block erosion and pin holes. As far as the dishonety of your dealer, I'm sure there is more to it, but one thing is for sure, MTD/Cub Cadet will not tolerate this. Go to the MTD web and report him! If he is doing you wrong, chances are he is doing it to everyone. The manual can be had from Cub Cadet, it is FORM NO. 772-9044, entitled: "Series 7000 Compact Tractor, Models 7232, 7272, 7233, 7273, 7234, 7274, 7235, 7275; the address is Cub Cadet Corporation, P.O. Box 368023, Cleveland, Ohio 44136. And when they tell you it has to be printed, please be patient, they aren't fibbing, the manuals are printed in the USA to order. You'd be surprised how many used machines are sold without the manual. Finally, you are right, this is the best tractor related site I've ever seen and again, I thank all those who make it possible. Good Luck. ....

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Ed
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2000-09-26          20092

Excellent comeback and thanks! Ok here is my dilemma: i am at 253 hrs. I got the tractor with 150hrs on it. I know they changed the engine oil - but I have no proof they did the hydraulic side as part of the sale. I got the seat side filter so far, but not the underside filter. Ive done the engine - but have not done the coolant - good point you make on the coolant so I will do it this weekend, however, ethylene glycol IS alcohol.....so exactly what coolant should I use? Distilled water ok?

Now about the hyd fluid - I notice some tubs say 'hydraulic fluid' (like what you get from central tractor) and they say 'notfor use in transmissions' and the stuff my dealer gave me (not cub fluid - its lubriguard - all they stock for both cub and kubotas) is called hydraulic tractor/transmission fluid - one size fits all? the 2 systems (hydrostat and hydraulics) use the same reservior? If so why 2 filters? so if I drain those 2 rear plugs - I get it all? (save what might be in a line or pump) I plan on doing this this weekend - now im a bit dismayed at having to deal with 6 gallons of hydraulics!!! My shop disposes of used oil, but 10 gal ata time, this is 60% of my capacity!

thanks again.... ....

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mbjacobs
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2000-09-27          20103

Ed, In the anti-freeze/coolant world ethylene glycol is NOT alcohol even though they are similar chemically. When we talk about alcohol anti-freeze we mean methanol. Ethylene glycol (and now propylene glycol) are called "permanent anti-freeze" The propylene glycol is more environmentally friendly (less toxic) than ethylene glycol but slightly more expensive and not quite as effective at depressing the freezing point of water. I don't believe any modern vehicles use methanol anti-freeze and I'd be surprised if it is being sold as anti-freeze/coolant. ....

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Ted Kennedy
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2000-09-27          20116

Ed, M.B. Jacobs is right about the coolant. MTD wants you to use the stuff that is "NOT" environmentally friendly: ethylene glycol. I use "Prestone" for severe duty coolant applications from a truck supply house. Don't forget to use a high quality system flush, it helps the radiator especially. Yes, when you remove the two drain plugs you'll be draining the entire system except for a small amount in the pump, cylinders, and hoses. I don't know what to tell you about your new fluid, if the dealer says it's OK then it probably is. Ask him if he will stand by it if you have a problem from using it. You must change the filters when you drain out the system, remove the old filters first, then the plugs. The filler is the dip stick opening on the center housing, I use a real long funnel. You are correct, that's an awful lot of fluid to get rid of, and that's why many owners just change filters every 200 hours, then top off. Some last bits of advice, I'm told the drain plugs are in a machined aluminum casting, not iron. Treat them with respect lest you have one of those awkward mechanical moments we all regret. And while you are under there, check your three point hitch mounting bolts for tightness. Good Luck. ....

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Ed
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2000-09-27          20121

Thanks again guys, I will have her all drained out by noon on saturday. ....

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larry
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2000-09-27          20127

While your changing your fluids dont forget the Front drive axle,there are 3 drain plugs & 1 fill hole,there are oil level plugs that you fill to. It calls for 85W-140 gear oil-4.2 qts
You should drain these oils when they are WARM for both axles
Also I talked to MTD & they told me as long as it was mixed at 50-50 the new
LONG LIFE antifreeze was acceptable.So far it has worked well.
My Cub is a 7275
Thankyou ....

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Trent Cloaninger
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2000-10-02          20240

Cub now recommends hydraulic/transmission fluid for the front axle because it flows thru the bearings faster. If you use 85/140 you need to leave the check plugs out a day for it to flow all the way thru. ....

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Art White
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2000-10-02          20250

Lubriguard is a economy oil built by Quaker State oil for tractor hydralic systems. I would recommend you go to a Case-Ih dealer and pick up some HytranII oil. That oil is a far better oil just as far as a oil goes and will absorb more moisture than any oil I know of. Case-IH dealers sold those tractors before Cub did and the oil's recommended were built around these oils. Hytran when full of moisture will turn a pinkish color when in need of a change. The oil is rated at a ten weight so it is one of the best for cold operation. ....

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Ed
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2000-10-02          20251

Well I did some research....the fluid for these cubs and other machines that take 'tractor hyd/trans fluid' - what is it? Its simply 80w oil with a GL4 additive package (must be a lot of 'white metal' in the system).

Meaning boat lower unit lube will work, cept you need to have the spec 'UDT' met. There are others, but the kubota UDT spec covers pretty much everything built today.

And of course my scumbag dealer did not stock the mitsubishi filter for my drive unit - but I did find that ALL the cubs use the same drive filter, whether gear or HST! So, Ted Kennedy, forget about your senate race and please tell me the mitsu number for the filters for this tractor from your manual? I am heading over to the baldwin page armed with such data...

In other words I did jack on the tractor this weekend, twas ok, had to finish up a house rewire so I was busy. And those ROPS mounted lights look hot. Cannot wait to mow at night (I know, I need a life)

Oh btw - methyl alcohol is what is in winsheild washer fluid. ....

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Ed
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2000-10-02          20257

Gotta disagree with some of ur post....althought what u say about llubriguard might be true, I got another pail at walmart - the tech 2000, I know for a fact that tech 2000 is QS - aside from pail colors, the labels are the same, same specs)

But anyways, no such thing really as an 'economy' oil if it meets the specs of another oil. There might be an argument if one was synthetic and the other was not, but as I said, tractor trans/hyd oil is GL4 80W. I saw some 'cub' oil at the dealer and checked its specs also to make sure it xrefs.

And notice something: the lack of kubota, cub, case-IH et al wells, tankers and refineries.

not one tractor maker makes or even blends oil. However, due to us law, no one can tell you you MUST use their replacement parts unless they give them to you for free. As a result, the manuals all say 'use oil blah blah that MEETS our spec'.

If lubriguard is economy oil, then I can assure you 'case-ih' oil is even MORE so as they are not in the biz of selling oil, lubriguard is.

At any rate, to see an oil you have to tell people what it is. If for motors, you have to give the wieght and API service class, those that just sell plain old oil are forced by law to say 'SA' on the package.

when I saw 'GL4' on the side of the tin, knowing API service classes and transfer classes, that told me all I need to know....

and kubotas UDT spec is about as comprehensive as u can get. Kubota and cubs mistsubishis might have diff labels on them, but underneath are frightenly similar ....

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Ted Kennedy
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2000-10-02          20261

Hi Ed, Here are your numbers; Mitsubishi Engine Oil Filter is 30A40-00102 @ $10.00, Mitsubishi Hydrostatic Filter is MA19632558000 @ $25.78, Mitsubishi Hydraulic Filter is MA19642509000 @ $28.35. If you are interested, the number for the hydraulic fluid is Cub Cadet 7273062 @ $10.12 per gallon. I also use this fluid for the MFD axle and wheel drive differentials at the 200 hour mark. ....

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Ed
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2000-10-02          20264

btw - if u click on photos, the 7275 there is mine :-) ....

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Steve in Buffalo NY
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2000-10-03          20283

Hi Ed and everybody else. About those Baldwin filters.... I went as far as some phone calls and e-mails with the Eastern US Baldwin rep and HIS research with the cross reference and every tool HE could get his hands on. No Dice. I even sent him copies of the front of the Mitsu boxes from the filters. Still no dice. He has no IDEA who makes them even. So I'm stuck with the dealer. BTW - NAPA stocks the engine oil filter. It appears just about every Mitsubishi engine made uses the same one. Go Figure. If you have any luck please let me know. ....

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Trent Cloaninger
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2000-10-03          20285

Here are some Wix interchange numbers. For the Hydrostatic filter 19632558000 use wix 51664. The 51664 also fits the hydraulic filter on the 19-20 hp tractors using the 11812303000. I don't know what the mitsu. filter specs are but the 51664 is a 20 micron. Wix tells me they are working on a filter for the 19642509000, but it is not out yet. It's supposed to be a 57118? The fuel filter is a 33264. The air filter on the 19-20-23hp (10300511200)is a 46387. There is no crossover for the larger air filter. The oil filters are either 51334 or 51356. They have the same base but I don't have an exact interchange number. ....

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larry
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2000-10-03          20289

The oil filters are made in Japan by Mitsubishi ....

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Art White
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2000-10-04          20304

Ed your info is wrong! GL is a listing for gear oil not hydraulic oil. You are right no manufacturers of tractors own a refinery. Even when Tenneco owned Case they never owned a refinery. The manufacturers do have certain critera they look for in the oil to make it work in there design. NAPA oil is made by Valvoline but not to Valvolines specs. Hydralic oil runs from 10wht to 30wht depending on the manufacturer. Grey market Kubota's do use gear oil in there hydraulic system and some of the 40's and 50's designed tractors also used it. ....

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Ed
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2000-10-04          20323

GL4 is the correct class for trans/hyd fluid, as is iso 32 and 46 (or is it 36 and 42)

straight hyd oil will be 10-30, but the trans/hyd oil is 80W with something lighter added. It still has the same vickers rating on it... ....

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Art White
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2000-10-05          20338

Ed I still stand by what I said earlier in this post. The GL 4 now GL 5 is not a oil currently being recommmended in Kubota's, Boomers,Case-IH or JD's. The manufacturers have all changed to a hydraulic fluids of a lighter viscosity in the ranges of 10 to 30 weight. They do use GL listed oils in front axles planetary's and some differentials if seperate compartments from the hydraulics systems are used. Twenty plus years ago nearly all tractors did use gear oil as hydralic oil but they found it was to heavy to move when cold to work as a hydraulic fluid. Some manufacturers today are actually useing motar oil with a additive in skid loaders and some tractor applications. It is best to read the owners manual to see what is required by the manufacturer and than find a suitable oil that is available at a reasonable cost to you. There are differences in oil that are not visible to the naked eye. There is normally a good reason for a lower price the biggest reason is it might not be quite as good. Wrong products used for a application can be very expensive and if the damage can be prevented to begin with that is the cheapest solution. ....

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Ed
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2000-10-05          20342

I agree that the right oil should be used, but thats the problem - its almost impossible to find the correct data os you have to be creative! For example, my 7275 is a HST drive, which uses a different oil than say a 7270 gear drive, or a JD4300 with gear drive - both in terms of the transmission and hydraulics.

since we have determined it IS a common sump, I have to use those 'tractor transmission/hydraulic oils' Does ANYONE know what API or ISO rating cub wabts the oils to meet?

Cub itself does not have a published std like Case, JD or Kubota. And if cub was not so damn busy trying to rape us on filter/oil prices, we would not be looking elsewhere.

BTW - from an earlier post, that gave wix numbers, I worked backwards and got baldwin numbers:

B227 or B421 for oil

BT260 for HST filter

Its a start, as the hst filter is what I need.....hi ho hi ho off to central tractor I go.... ....

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