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belarus250
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 30 NE
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2008-05-05          153464


I bought an older 250 the other day from a guy who could not get it started, I can't as well. I have the operators manual and have been working down the 'no start' items. Can someone tell me:
1 Where is the governor cover?
2 Where are the delivery valve springs?
3 Where are the fuel delivery valves?
I know these are part of the 'injector pump' but what part? Lots of little plates and screws so the exact location on the pump would help.

I have put in an electric fuel pump to make sure I have fuel to the pump and return lines, I do. When I pull the tractor to start it the injector lines at the pump leak a bit so I think I'm getting some fuel to the injectors (new ones).

Thanks in advance for any help with this critter.
Ken

Oh, the last owner did valves and rings so the barrels were off. Could he have altered the time of the engine some how. The injector pump was not off as far as I know.
Hmmmmm.




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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2008-05-06          153476


Well, I'm far from an expert on those Rooskie machines, but there's lots of them around here, and in theory anyways a diesel is a diesel. So here goes nothing.

I would suggest you not worry too much about specifics yet, more often than not the problem is a simple one.

Start with fuel, one at a time back off the lines at the injectors and crank it over a bit, you should see fuel at every line in turn using just the injection pump. Tighten them back up if so.

Next, try to determine if you are getting good compression. IMHO this is likely the culprit in one way or another. The fact that the previous owner did the top end tells me it had issues. Since no compression means no ignition in a diesel, look carefully. Start with the valves, are the lifters and rockers alright and gapped correctly. Next try a little diesel in the intake and see if you are getting any smoke at all. With a very rich mixture you should be getting plenty of smoke, likely white or grey.

Finally, and only if all of the above is ruled out would I start looking at the pump itself. Personally, I wouldn't even look at a pump, complex things that are very precise and need to be calibrated very exactly. Mark the position of the pump as exactly as you can, remove it, and send it to a pump specialist. It's not much money if there's nothing wrong with it to just have it bench tested, and if there is something wrong, you won't fix it yourself anyways.

Let us know what you find.

Best of luck.

....


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belarus250
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 30 NE
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2008-05-06          153496


Murf:
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Points 1-2-3 of my original post relate to a section in the Operators Manual for the 250. A no start and fuel problems can sometimes be overcome by doing simple cleaning at these locations. Your point about puting a few squirts in the air intake is my next plan. Right now its get the loader off to access the top of the motor. I'll keep you posted.
Ken ....


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belarus250
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 30 NE
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2008-05-07          153535


Update:
With the electric lift pump working I found a few leaks from fuel tank to pump to injectors. Cranking the engine with the decompression lever on and the injector lines cracked at the injectors I got spurts of fuel. Called the local diesel pump rebuilder and had a chat. The 64 thousand dollar question is: is the pump puting out enough pressure to overcome the springs in the injectors. He said it doesn't take much pressure. Because the last owner put in a set of piston rings and it did not start, the engine is tight so I will have to pull start it on Friday and see if I get some smoke. I also took off the air breather and will squirt something into the air intake to see if I get smoke. Ahhhhh Belarus. ....


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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2008-05-08          153543


I would suggest a little shot of WD-40 with the air cleaner off first. This should get the engine going if it will start. Ether is real hard on piston rings and the last thing you want to use on a newly installed set. If you absolutely must use ether, use just a wiff while the starter is turning the engine at full speed.

Now that you have determined the injector pump is putting out fuel and it is receiving a good supply of fuel from the main tank, check the batteries and connections to be sure you are getting full voltage and cranking power. Having another battery jumpered in or another running engine jumpered in will add even more. When you start cranking the engine over, check the exhaust for white smoke. This tells you that she is trying to start and is getting good fuel. You may have to crank her a good bit on the first start after so long but if you are getting white smoke on cranking and the rpms increase with cranking like it wants to start you are on the right track. As much as I hate to use it, sometimes a little wiff of ether is needed. Good luck with it and let us know how things go. ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2008-05-08          153548


Belarus250,

Since you have a tractor that already has a rebuilt lower end, I would be highly suspect of the upper end......the head.

Remove the fuel injectors. Place the proper adapter fitting in each of the fuel injector ports, then pressurize each cylinder, one at a time, with compressed air. Do this when the respective cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke.

You'll have to prevent the crank from turning when you attempt to do this. If you're not sure how to go about this, it's best to leave it to an expert. You could get hurt or killed when doing this improperly.

With high pressure air on each cylinder, listen for leaks. If you hear air escaping from the intake manifold, or through the air cleaner, you'll know that you have a bad intake valve, or at least one that needs to be adjusted properly.

If you hear air escaping through the exhaust manifold, you'll be able to turn your attention to the exhaust valve on that cylinder.

If you hear air escaping through the crankcase vent, it's a sure sign that the piston ring job was done improperly.

It's possible that you may see air bubbles in the radiator. (Remove the radiator cap before pressurizing any cylinder) If so, this is an indication of a cracked head, or at a minimum, a blown head gasket.

If you hear air coming from somewhere, but can't quite identify the trouble spot, try pouring a bit of soapy water on and around the head. You may see air bubbles appear somewhere around the outer edge of the head gasket.

Performing a compression test on each cylinder is the fastest way to troubleshoot many different things at the same time. It doesn't take long to perform this test, and it will save you many hours of grief. You could easily find that you have more than one issue to deal with.

Good luck.

Joel ....


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belarus250
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 30 NE
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2008-05-08          153558


Looks like a nice team has come together to give life to the dead or sleeping! I'll try to wake it up tomorrow, my pilot (wife) for the tow truck will be home. I had pulled it down the road in an attempt to start it and it does have compression, locks the tractor wheels before it turns, but it does. I discovered something interesting: I asked the last owner if there was any oil in the injector pump and he said " oh yes I have to add oil to it every week" Hmmmmm, I see by the Owners manual you have a drain and a level and a filler plug. I thought I should check it in case it is low. Well, when I took out the level plug at least half a litre came out, the pump was full. Not just to the level plug but way way above. The Manual states that overfilling of the injector pump will affect the governer. Another grasp for another straw!

The plan for tomorrow is:
-run the electric lift pump, check return in tank
-spin engine with comp. lever out while cracking injector lines to insure fuel to injectors.
-tow and hope
-if no go squirt in the wd40 look for smoke
Ken ....


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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2008-05-09          153570


Quote:
Originally Posted by belarus250 | view 153558
it does have compression, locks the tractor wheels before it turns, but it does. -if no go squirt in the wd40 look for smokeKen


You might should be using a higher gear on your tractor when pulling it, you are after a controlled pull. Realize the gearing and rpms the tractor is made for compared to speed the you are being pulled. It is amazing WD 40 does so well to not only crank but will run a diesel if you keep spraying it as needed. Wish you well. kt ....


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belarus250
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 30 NE
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2008-05-09          153583


It's ALIVE! Pull started it today.
Things aren't 100% but at least I know it runs, sort of. The big thing was draining out the extra oil in the injector pump. Once I got diesel at the injectors it pull started right up. When it first started (remember it had not run since rings and valves were done by the last owner)lots of oil and more fuel leaks. Front valve cover leaking oil down the fins, lift pump plunger leaks,etc. Interesting I let it run for 4 hrs, I was afraid to shut if off, it quit. I think what happened was the temp lead to the electric fuel pump came off, it ran for a while but I think the leak at the lift pump plunger let enough air in the system that the injector lines got air. I cracked the injector lines and used the starter to prime again but alas the battery was done. Looks like another tow job but after I get the leaks fixed. I'll update then. With the new ring job it turns over stiff,starter might be bad after all the cranking.
it
Ken ....


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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2008-05-09          153584


Ken,

Glad to hear you got the old girl fired up.

Though you have a few problems to address, the good news is that most of it is composed of those little time-consuming, piddly things.

Be sure to check your radiator often for signs of oil, air bubbles, or low coolant. Also check your engine oil quite frequently.

You never know about the quality of an engine rebuild until you get a few hours under your belt with it. Check those things often during the first week or two of service.

Congratulations!

Joel ....


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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2008-05-09          153586


Just for my understanding, I am kinda foggy and rusty on the Rusky tractors. As I recall, some the these tractor were air cooled weren't they? For some reason I was thinking the 250, 420, and maybe a few others were air cooled? If so, might be a really good reason to fix those leaks to prevent the possibility of a fire under hot weather conditions. ....


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